M's Cooking Diary

Musing about food, wine and cooking.

Monday, June 27, 2005

Lobster and Strawberry

This is my participation to Jennifer's blog event: "Taste Canada".

Nothing is more Canadian for me than strawberry and lobster. Not together of course. Although…


My earliest memory of lobster is of going with my father in the old basse-ville in Québec city to the United Fisherman warehouse. This was in the mid-sixties and that building does not exist anymore and for the life of me I can’t remember what it looked like inside. But I do remember the outside, an old brick building, maybe four stories high, with a big English hand painted wooden sign that went the breadth of the building. I probably remember it because we would pass in front of it many times over the course of a year but I would go inside just once a year. And that was the day we had lobster. One of the happiest of the year, that day was on par with my birthday and Christmas.

My father would buy 3 or 4 lobsters and when we arrived home, he would put them in the bathtub in cold water until dinner time. I would keep them company all afternoon, playing with them, watching how their very complex mouth would move, making them walk on the bathroom floor and generally making a mess. But at the same time, I treated them with care, making sure not to dislodge the little wooden peg that kept their claws from mauling me.

When at last my father removed them from the bathroom and brought to the kitchen, I would follow him and watch how he would cook them. Later, I had no problem eating what had become in fact my pet lobsters.

I would request the biggest and gorge myself with his sweet meat. Asking for help from my father only to crack the claws with the less damage possible because I wanted to dry them and keep them in my room. I also kept the thorax with the eyes and antennas.

The meal would always end with a bit of frustration for me because by the time I had polished off my lobster, green stuff and all, my parent would still be working on theirs and I would look with envy at their plate until I learned to pace myself, starting with each leg section, bit by bit, working my way from the smallest morsel to the glorious tail. To this day, more than 30 years later and even though I usually have 2 of them, I’m always the last to finish.

I still have lobster only once a year though. I think it’s important to keep that tradition alive and now that I have a son (a month old on June 24th) I think I’ll keep them in the bathtub when he is tall enough to look over the side.

In the category of those things that crawls at the bottom of the sea, I believe our cold water Canadian lobster, in particular the ones from “les Iles de la Madeleine” is the best in the world.

Recipe for lobster

A stock pot or such, large enough to hold your lobsters.

An inch of water at the bottom.

A good handful of coarse salt.

When the water is boiling, put the live lobster in the pot.

Say a quick prayer of thanks to the lobster spirit.

Close the lid.

Wait about 12 to 15 minutes (no more) and serve with a nice rosé and plenty of paper towels.

Now about strawberries...

In the province of Québec, a very small percentage of the strawberry crop is ever exported. In fact almost half of what is grown is self picked so the varieties grown here are chosen for their taste, not their size or abilities to sustain travel.

Right now we are full in strawberry season and seeing all those basket of red fruit yesterday at the Jean-Talon market reminded me of the only time my mother made jams.

Although a good cook, she was never into sweets. She hardly ever made dessert apart from the occasional lemon and meringue pie or pineapple mousse.

It was the summer of 67 when one of my father’s sisters visited from Yugoslavia. She came with her husband, during “l’année de l’Expo”. They arrived by ship, almost penniless as they could not take money out of the country and stayed with us for 2 months.

At one point, we went to tour l’Ile d’Orleans and my parent bought a few basket of strawberry and my aunt showed my mother how to make “slatko”. Slatko means sweet in Serbian. This is the traditional Serbian jam made of any small fruit. The whole idea of slatko is that the fruit should stay whole, so a lot of sugar is needed and it cannot be overcook.

When you enter a Serbian home for the first time, and that was how my mother and I were welcomed in my grandmother’s home in Belgrade in ’65, when we traveled there so she would meet her first grandson before she passed away, you are presented with a small glass of cold water, a jar of slatko and a spoon. You eat a spoonful of jam and drink the water and then you can enter the home. I think it is a marvelous tradition.

My mother and my aunt worked all day on that strawberry slatko. Filling jar after jar of red jam and sealing them with a thick disk of paraffin. We kept it for many years. It was so sweet that our teeth would hurt and often big crystal of sugar would form in the jar. But at then end of the summer, my aunt went away and nevermore did my mother make another jar of jam.

But I did not make slatko yesterday, I made a refreshing dessert. It’s 32C in Montreal as I write this and one will takes all the refreshing one can get.

Wash and cut in half a small basket of Quebec strawberry (or other province’s but I decline any responsibility if you use strawberries from California(*)).

Cut 2 mangoes, lengthwise along the pit, taking each half piece in the palm of your hand and crisscrossing the flesh with the point of a sharp knife without piercing the skin.

Return the skin like a glove and you’ll have small cube of mangoes that you will only need to cut from the skin.

Mix the mangoes with the strawberries in a bowl.

Add 2 table spoons or so of white sugar, or maple syrup (Canadian content), or brown sugar.

A pinch of salt.

A few turn of peppermill. Ever since I saw the Galloping Gourmet as a kid put pepper on a strawberry pie, I use pepper with strawberry.

Wash and chop a handful of mint leave.

A few drop of orange flower water.

A few drop of cognac or Armagnac or something like that. In fact I used Brazilian cachaça.

Mix well, put in the fridge right before dinner and serve for dessert in chilled bowls. Don’t wait too much. You don’t want the strawberries to turn to mush.

That’s it

(*) No offense intended to Californian, I never tasted strawberry in California but what is exported with the name of your state on it hardly merit the name of strawberry.


At 9:09 PM, Blogger Ana said...

Good heavens Mirko I had a good laugh reading your post.

When we arrived in Canada some 20 years ago we were in Montreal for a week and we went into a restaurant that served an all-you-can eat lobster dinner. It cost $14.00 It was a lot of money, but in Europe we had never seen the concept of the "all-you-can-eat" and we wanted to try. We coudn't believe some people who would bring 2 whole lobsters into their plate, and then went up for more, and went up for more again. We could not believe this was allowed.

Mario and I were absolutely convinced that the restaurant would go bankrupt soon.

At 10:44 AM, Blogger Jennifer said...

Mirko that is a fabulous story - I am so happy you shared it with us for Taste Canada!

Your lobster sounds delicious as do your strawberries...thanks again and make sure you come back next year!

At 9:03 AM, Blogger blaze said...

I really enjoyed you cooking lobster website. I also have a site about cooking lobster Please take a look. I hope you will find it interesting

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